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Soft Financing & Insurance
A. How to ride now and pay later?
Because we know that needs are not always aligned with possibilities, at TradeChain, we have decided to offer quick and easy financing services.
Our solution is a convenient and friendly pay later by card one.
Based on your choice, our partner, HeidiPay, charges your card every month to collect future instalments. He never charges you interests or fees, as we take care of them, so you always know in advance what you pay.
BNPL (Buy now, pay later)!
Quick guide
Watch the demo-video
Don’t forget:
B. Insure your e-bike, secure your mobility
Your newly bought e-bike is a valuable vehicle which needs to be protected against any risks. We recommend TCS as a reputable insurance supplier for all Europe. TCS Bicycle Insurance includes everything you need for your e–bike in terms of protection.
Why TCS Bicycle Insurance?
• Europe-wide comprehensive insurance – reimbursement of repair costs; after an accident, we will pay the costs of repairing your bike.
Watch the video
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frame size & fitting tips
A. How do you determine the correct frame height?
Much has been written about sizing, and what is the correct sizing for an electric bicycle. The fact is that if you want to ‘cycle’ with your electric bicycle, you can observe a number of rules of thumb. When we talk about the correct cycling position, we distinguish three main elements. These are:
• Frame height
• Saddle height
• Position and upper body posture
See here how you can cycle safely on your e-bike.
Electric bike frame height
If you would like to know which frame height is most suitable for you, we always recommend that you contact us. We have the experience in measuring a bicycle and we can give you sound advice. The frame size is the distance in centimetres from the bottom bracket – the heart of the total pedal revolution – to the point of the frame where the seat post exits the frame, expressed in centimetres (see picture). To determine your frame height, you can apply the following table.
Body Lenght
150-165 cm
155-170 cm
160-180 cm
170-190 cm
185-195 cm
190-210 cm
frame height
46
49
51/53
56/57
61
65
Measure the frame height you require yourself
You can also measure the frame height you require for a bicycle yourself. You need a tape measure for this. Take off your shoes, stand up straight – the easiest is against a wall – place your legs about 20cm apart and have your crotch height measured. To find your cruising altitude, you can place a broom handle against the wall. When the broom handle is placed against the wall, lower yourself onto the broom handle and raise it as you stand up. When the highest point is reached you have the actual cruising height. You can try using the part of the tape measure to find your crotch height yourself and someone else pull the tape measure out to the floor.
Multiply this by 0.67 and the result is ‘almost’ your frame height. Why almost? Slightly different standards apply to low entry frames. The top tube length can vary, for example compact models are often equipped with a longer top tube. A funny fact: when you multiply the result by 0.885, you have the distance to the top of the saddle, measured in line with the seat tube. This is a sporty height, you may be shocked if you have never been in contact with setting a correct saddle height. See seat adjustment for more information.
To sum up:
1. Put on comfortable pants.
2. Without shoes, stand upright against a wall.
3. Put your feet up to 20 cm apart.
4. Have someone measure your cruising altitude. Or do it partially yourself by pressing the tape measure against your crotch yourself and having someone else pull the tape measure out to the bottom.
In practice there is a deviation in the measurement, something that does not apply to the saddle height, but to the frame height. With a small cruising height, the outcome of the frame height becomes relatively slightly larger, with very large cruising heights, the outcome of the frame height becomes relatively smaller.
B. Positioning
Set the saddle height of the bicycle
Important for setting your saddle height correctly is the setback, the horizontal position and the width of the saddle. A saddle alone is a science in itself. Which width, which materials, which length. A rule of thumb for this is the more upright you sit, the wider the saddle. When you adopt a sportier position – bent forward – the saddle can be narrower. In this case, it is best to contact us for correct advice. In any case, the first important step is to set your saddle height.
Sweat is also a factor in saddle sores. Good cycling shorts with a ‘chamois’ ensure good drainage of moisture. Cycling with normal pants can trap sweat, which can have unpleasant consequences.
Setback
1. Have the pedal point forward.
2. Ball of foot on the centre of the pedal axle.
3. Line from knee should now be on or slightly in front of the pedal axle.
4. Place the saddle horizontally or at least in the position where you have the feeling that it does not slide forward or backward. It is possible that saddles have a different design, which gives a different meaning to horizontal adjustment.
You may want to get your feet to the ground quickly, for example if you want to quickly stop. Then follow the above procedure and then lower the saddle until you are satisfied with the cycling position. Then adjust the saddle horizontally backwards. After all, it remains a choice between an optimal cycling position or a comfortable dismount. A recumbent bike is in fact the maximum solution to this problem.
Suitable cycling position FOR electric bicycle
With the arrival of electric bicycles, the cycling posture has also changed. People like to sit upright, and this changes the pressure on the saddle. Something that can lead to sitting and posture problems. We recommend adopting a cycling position as much as possible.
Research shows that it is important to find a position in which your arms are relaxed and your hands only hold the handles. You can find that position as follows:
1. Adjust your saddle and saddle height.
2. Adjust your handlebars so that your hands comfortably fall into the grips (while stationary). This involves the rotation of the handlebars so that your wrists are in a relaxed position.
3. Set your handlebar so that you have the feeling that you want to cycle with assistance (while stationary). Please note, when you are standing still you have a strong tendency to want to sit upright. This does not apply when you are cycling.
4. Then start cycling with your preferred assistance level on.
5. While pedalling, try to release your hands slightly so that you are in balance with your upper body. The weight of your upper body is then in position and in balance with the degree to which you are pedalling (counter-pedal pressure). You will feel whether the handlebar should be slightly raised, towards you, away from you or lowered.
6. Repeat this also against the wind. You will automatically lean forward more and you can feel whether you are not too close to the handlebar.
7. Fix the handlebar to your desired position.
Handlebar position
The handlebar width of your electric bicycle can also be adjusted. E-bike handlebars are often delivered with a maximum width. A handlebar can be made narrower by cutting off a part on both sides. A rule of thumb for handlebar width is:
1. Sit in cycling position
2. Draw an imaginary line from the outside of your shoulder straight out to the handlebars. Your hand has to be just outside that line.
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maintenance tips
How To Keep Your E-Bike Running Smoothly
When it comes to electric bike maintenance, there can be a lot of working parts that require upkeep. Knowing what needs doing and when to do it can be a little overwhelming at first, but rest assured the basics of electric bike maintenance aren’t difficult at all.
A lot of the maintenance that an electric bike needs is the same as any regular bicycle. It can feel overwhelming because of the extra components but if you look after things, it’s unlikely you will experience any serious issues.
The electric-specific parts of an e-bike are almost completely off-limits to the home mechanic. There’s a real danger of serious injury plus you risk voiding your warranty if you take things apart yourself.
Fortunately, the battery and motor are long-lasting components and require very little in the way of outright maintenance. Unlike the traditional parts of a bike, which are consumable items that wear out, the electronics should keep on working owing to the protective and waterproof housings. If there is an issue, check with the manufacturer to find out how to best proceed.
Clean your bike as often as required
Some of the best maintenance advice involves keeping your bike clean. The big wear items are the chain, the brakes, and the tyres but then most riders – even experienced cyclists – don’t really know what to look for when it comes to component wear. You might live in wet climate which brings us onto our next point.
Anytime your bike is wet or dirty do your best to give a clean or even a hose down before storing it. Without ever hitting delicate components with high-pressure water, rinse off any caked-on dirt. Give the frame a gentle wipe and make sure the chain is clean and dry. During the cleaning process make sure you are paying attention to any irregulars or red flags.
Regular deep cleans and inspections
It’s recommended that you spend some time giving your bike a deep clean every few weeks. Look for dirt stuck in the derailleur and in all the nooks and crannies around the wheels. Clean the chain and re-lube it. The frame should end up genuinely sparkly.
During this more thorough cleaning process, check the tyres. Look for cuts, even if the tyres are holding air. If your tyres have substantial lugs, check to see that they aren’t worn down and if you have road tyres make sure there isn’t a flat spot in the middle of the otherwise round carcass. Don’t be shy about replacing tyres. Good condition tyres are much less likely to experience a puncture.
If you ride your bike less than average due to inclement weather, then you can stretch out the cleaning intervals. The fact remains that a clean bike will perform better than one that’s been neglected so don’t stretch the cleaning intervals too far. It’s a ritual after all and something that really let’s get intimate with how everything works and bolts together.
Pay attention while you ride
You need to pay attention to the way your bike is performing while riding it, especially when it comes to electric bikes as there is more force placed on the components. When riding you want to be listening for any strange sound effects. One of the first, obvious signs that things aren’t right is extra noise from a bike. Is there something that’s rattling? Is the chain making noise? What about the brakes – are they squealing?
A well-maintained bike will be pretty quiet. There’ll still be some noise coming from the chain and, with electric bikes, you may hear the motor but that’s normal. Everything should be running smoothly. Listen out for clunky gear changes or skipping/slipping gears. If at any point your bike gets louder, or there is any kind of grinding noise, that’s when you need to take a closer look.
One thing to look for is ensuring your thru-axles are tightly fastened. If you notice your wheel develops a slight wobble it will probably also make noise as your rotors rub against your brake pads. If the wobble persists, have the wheel checked as it’s likely that it has become buckled from a pothole.
Do periodic maintenance
No matter how clean and well lubricated you keep your bike there is still a need for periodic maintenance. Cables stretch, brake pads wear – as do chains and tyres.
We recommend a basic tune-up every six months or 1’000 km. Please note that TradeChain offers a free first maintenance for any e-bike you buy from us.
A basic tune-up should include adjusting and inspecting all the major systems. Gear cables should get an adjustment and may need replacement. Brake pads and rotors should be thoroughly checked and the system bled if deemed necessary by the mechanic. Have the chain checked for wear and possibly replaced. Check that the gears are in good working order, too. Look for movement or noise in the bottom bracket and service as necessary.
Don’t put things off
Parts are expensive and being without a bike is no fun at all. Wash your bike regularly and use that time to get familiar with the way it operates – this will help you pinpoint any areas of concern when things do eventually go awry. Grit on the brake pads or the chain will wear them out significantly faster. Worn brake pads will wear the rotors down faster and result in an expensive bill.
Small and easy-to-fix problems can become expensive if left unattended. This is even more true on an electric bike where the forces involved are higher. Brakes pads are inexpensive, but rotors aren’t. A chain is an inexpensive part, but a worn chain will wear down the entire drivetrain (chainrings and gears), which is another costly exercise. Pro tip: don’t wait for a small problem to become a big one.
Belt driven e-bikes have lower risks connected to the drivetrain as a system. You might take into consideration the difference in buying price as a comfort and operating costs advantage.
Don’t hesitate to Contact Us for on-line assistance at your earliest convenance.